Blog Suspended Due to Technical Difficulties

My apologies for not having any entries lately. Several technical issues have prevented my posting of anything on the blog. We hope to have it up soon or perhaps we will be switching to another one. Thank you for your patience.

Upcoming UGA Extension Gwinnett Educational Programs

Here are some upcoming UGA Extension Gwinnett educational programs. You can access them on the day and time they are held by clicking on the Zoom link:

Fall Lawn Care – September 2 – 6:00pm to 7:00pm. Free. Several tasks need to be done during the fall. Proper fertilization, seeding and pest control will help to keep your lawn healthy and attractive.  Online Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/95624083267

Fall is for Planting – September 15 – 6:00pm to 7:00pm.

Free. Fall is an ideal time to plant trees and shrubs. They will have time to become established during the cold weather and prosper the following spring and summer. Online Zoom at:  https://zoom.us/j/96276788537

Gardening with Herbs • September 22 6:00pm to 7:00pm.

Herbs are excellent garden plants that require minimal maintenance and come in a variety of scents, flavors, and colors. They are useful in cooking, fragrance, and are attractive features in the landscape. Online Zoom at:  https://zoom.us/j/98447261009

Perennial Flowers for the Garden • October 6

6:00pm to 7:00pm. The fall is an ideal time to plant perennials, flowering plants that come back year after year. Proper soil preparation, selections of plants and maintenance will ensure an attractive garden of colorful plants. Online Zoom at:  https://zoom.us/j/92780159703.

Rain Gardens • October 20

6:00pm to 7:00pm. Reducing rainfall runoff form your property will help improve the quality of the environment. One way is the installation of rain gardens that consist of a multitude of ornamental plants. They collect rainwater and allow for it to slowly infiltrate into the ground.
Online Zoom at:  https://zoom.us/j/95557939841.

Septic Tank Webinar-Free. Many homes have on-site wastewater management systems, commonly called septic systems. Because septic systems are buried, it is easy to forget about them as they quietly, elegantly and efficiently treat waste products while maintaining human and environmental health. Poor maintenance is a common cause of septic system failure. Join us for this VIRTUAL workshop to learn more about where the system is, how it works and how to maintain it to avoid costly repairs:
October 15, Septic Tank - English version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_61CVDhGNTuisFvRh_WvybQ
October 22, Septic Tank - Spanish version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_YxX0GEftTa2d2_3BwgkuKw
Time: 6:30pm to 7:30pm

Tall Fescuegrass: Fall is the Optimal Time to Seed and Install Sod

 

The months of September and October are best for renovating and installing
fescue lawns

    Tall fescue is a popular grass in our area and is easily established through seed or sod. The turf is a cool season grass meaning it grows best when the temperatures are lower and holds its green color during the winter months whereas warm season grasses, such as bermuda and zoysia, have gone dormant and turned brown. During the hot, dry conditions of summer, the grass requires the addition of supplemental water to stay green and healthy.

      The best time of the year to plant tall fescue is September into mid-October. Seeding it too early in the season can cause heat stress and diseases; however, when planting late in the season, the grass may not become fully established due to freezing temperatures. Applications during the spring are not advisable because, although the seed will germinate, it has insufficient time to get established prior to the onset of the summer heat. Soil preparation is the most important aspect of caring for a fescue lawn. The grass prefers fertile, well-drained soils with a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Make sure you have the soil tested through UGA Extension Gwinnett to determine the pH and nutrient needs.

      Most established fescue lawns need to be periodically reseeded since they tend to thin out over time. Since our soils are mostly clay, they are easily compacted by rain, irrigation, foot traffic, and the intense summer heat, which decreases the ability of the roots to grow, for air and water to penetrate into the soil. To reduce compaction, use a hollow tine core aerator every two to four years, which is available from rental stores or garden centers.  The tines poke holes into the ground and pull out small one to two-inch-long “cores.” The deposition of the small cores of soil on top of the ground also assists reducing compaction. Mow the grass down to one and one-half inches to help improve the ease of aerating the soil and for the seed to make soil contact before aerating. When using the machine, do so in a criss-cross direction by first going over the entire lawn, back and forth in one direction and then go back and forth at right angles to the first series of trips. If you are not aerating, use a steel rake to break up the soil in bare areas to ensure the seed gets into the soil.

    The seed purchased should be of high quality to ensure a high percent of germination and minimal weed content, and should have this information listed on the tag. Apply the seed at the rate of five to seven pounds per 1,000 square feet. Resist the temptation to use more seed since closely growing seedlings compete with each other for water and nutrients in addition to being more susceptible to disease. One of the most commonly used fescue seed has been Kentucky-31. However, new improved cultivated varieties, such as ‘Southeast,’ ‘Rebel,’ and ‘Tenacity,’ are more attractive cultivars and are referred to as "turf-type" tall fescues. They have finer leaf blades, lower growth habit, darker green color, greater density and more tolerance to heat and shade than K-31.

      After over-seeding has been completed, the upper one-inch soil needs to be kept moist during the time the seed is germinating by thorough applications of water two to three. Refrain from mowing for a couple of weeks after the seed has been applied, and then mow at the height of two to three inches.

    With proper preparation and planning, and using the appropriate cultural methods to maintain the fescue plot, you will have an attractive and healthy lawn giving you an exceptionally lush, green carpet of grass throughout the year.

Mushrooms in the Lawn

Mushrooms are the reproductive structures of naturally occurring soil fungi

    Many residents have contacted the Extension office concerned about a large number of mushrooms that have appeared in their lawns of recent. They have contacted the Extension office asking what can be done to get rid of the mushrooms and prevent them form appearing again. The answer is nothing. Mushrooms are the reproductive structures of fungi that are growing in the soil that feed on decomposing organic matter. They are everywhere though their mycelium, which are like stems and roots, are seldom visible. No chemicals will prevent their appearance. The fungi are nature doing its thing - decomposing organic material and returning nutrients to the soil. If they are bothersome, use a lawnmower to mow them down or hand pull. 
    Never eat any mushrooms found growing in the wild. While some are edible, they are hard to distinguish from the poisonous ones. 

Lawn Tips for Late August

Once the weather cools down in September, you can seed or sod tall fescue grass.

UGA Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz has these tips for your lawn for the end of August:

By mid-August, turf care begins to shift. Warm-season turfgrass is nearing the close of its establishment window, while it’s too early yet for establishing cool season turf. 

• Split applications of fertilizer for warm-season turf continues through October, but it’s too early yet for fertilizing cool season turf. 
• Continue to monitor for diseases, such as brown patch, dollar spot, or Pythium blight, affecting both cool- and warm-season turfgrasses. 
• Insect activity may still be high. Monitor frequently for pests, such as chinch bugs, mole crickets, sod webworms, or grubs. 

Ashikaga Flower Park Japan

The Ashikaga Flower Park in Japan has beautiful displays of wisteria and other plants. It looks more like something out of a fantasy would. Please check out their website and the pictures below.

https://www.ashikaga.co.jp/english/

Water Conservation for Lawns

Here is a brief update on lawns by University of Georgia Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz, Ph.D.:

     All living things need water to survive, albeit a different amount for different organisms. For plants, supplemental water from irrigation is sometimes needed between natural rainfall events. Fortunately, turfgrass is a fairly robust plant that needs relatively little water for survival.

     Many factors influence the amount and frequency of water needed for turfgrass within a home lawn. Soil type, type of grass, fertility level, frequency of rain, temperature, wind, and humidity all affect the amount of water needed. A high-level fertilization and hot, windy days tend to increase the demand for water, while low level fertilization and cool, cloudy days tend to decrease the demand for water.

     One way of conditioning the turfgrass to need less supplemental irrigation or, to remain green between periodic summer rain showers is to tolerate some moisture stress. An observable characteristic of moisture stress in turfgrass is wilt. Wilt is a physiological defense mechanism of the turfgrass plant and allowing some moisture stress actually triggers the plant to initiate rooting, allowing the turfgrass to explore a greater soil volume for water reserves.

     Before watering, look for visual symptoms of water stress, such as gray color, leaf cupping/curling, or footprints remaining on the lawn after walking across it. Observing some moisture stress within the lawn prior to applying irrigation can be good and improve the sustainability of the grass. Daily irrigation of turfgrass produces short roots incapable of tolerating periodic drought stress. Most established turfgrasses in Georgia only need one inch of water per week. Irrigation should be applied to supplement rainfall.

     Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of five to seven inches. Do not apply water until runoff occurs. If water is being applied faster than the soil can absorb it, turn the irrigation off and allow the existing moisture to move into the soil, then apply the remaining irrigation to achieve 1.0 inch.

      Pay attention to the weather. Reduce the amount you water when it is raining or cloudy. Avoid irrigation schedules that apply more water than the turf may need. Prior to sunrise is the best time to water because of less wind and lower temperature. Research indicates water loss at night through evaporation may be 50 percent less than during midday irrigation.

    Employing some best management practices (BMPs) like tolerating some wilt, allowing water to move into the soil, and not watering during the heat of the day can conserve water and maintain a healthy, attractive lawn.

Strange Webs in Trees: The Work of Fall Webworms

Fall Webworms appearing in trees throughout the area.

   The Extension office has received numerous calls from homeowners concerned about strange webs that have appeared in some of the trees in their home landscapes. A common misconception is that they are the result of some spider. The cause is an insect called the fall webworm. They appear in late summer and early fall and attack a multitude of plants, including many fruits, nut and ornamental trees and shrubs. In some cases the webs are so numerous they can cause the tree branches to break. Infestations are unsightly but rarely harmful to the trees.

    The fall webworm is a caterpillar; the larval stage of a small white moth. Full-grown caterpillars are approximately 1-inch long, pale green or yellow, and covered with tufts of long, white and black hairs. The insects often cover entire branches with their webs. The larvae feed within the web, eating leaf tissue between the leaf veins. The larvae drop off the tree and enclose themselves in cocoons. They spend the winter as pupae in silken cocoons on the ground or the bark of the tree. In the spring, the moths emerge from their cocoons, disperse and mate. Female moths deposit their eggs on the undersides of the leaves of plants they like to eat. The webworm eggs hatch later in the season, and the larvae begin to build the web. As the larvae consume leaves within the web, they expand the web to take in more and more foliage.

     Often the insect is confused with the Eastern tent caterpillar, which spins webs during the spring in the crotches of the trees. Fall webworms make their webs in the outer limbs of the trees in the autumn.

Eastern tent caterpillars build their nest in the crotches of trees.
They are active in the early spring

      The caterpillars can be controlled without insecticides. You can destroy the webs by using a long pole with a hook on the end and pull the webs down. Larvae can also be knocked out of lower branches with a stick or broom, or simple pruned. Many beneficial insects attack the egg and larval stages of fall webworm. You can help these predators and parasites get to their fall webworm prey by tearing open the webs.

      If webs are too numerous or too high in a tree to reach, sometimes insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to kill the insects. Hose-end sprayers or commercial high-pressure sprayers are best for reaching upper portions of tall trees. Use caution when applying insecticides above your head and wear all the proper protective clothing required on the chemical label, insecticide sprays must penetrate the web deeply to be effective since the webbing is quite tough and difficult for the spray to get in. Please make sure you follow all label directions and safety precautions when applying pesticides.

    The webs caused by the fall webworms seldom harm the trees. Often just ignoring them and leaving them in the trees is the best course of action to take.

Sugar Maples Make a Great Snack for Sapsuckers

 

Holes in rows caused by sapsuckers

What are the small holes that are spaced in horizontal rows across the bark in some trees? Sometimes there is a dark coloration of the bark below. What is causing this, and could it harm the trees? The holes are the result of the activity of sapsuckers, a species of woodpeckers feed on the tree’s sap.

     Sapsuckers are migratory birds that are most prevalent during the spring and fall. They prefer maple trees, but will also feed on pecans, Bradford pears, and several others. The birds choose these trees due to the high sugar content of their sap. It composes up to 20% of their diet and is especially crucial during the year when other food sources are in short supply. The birds also eat insects they find on the trees. They peck a small hole, roughly one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch in diameter and a depth of one-quarter of an inch in the tree's trunk. They will then use their tongue to suck up the sap. The holes are evenly spaced up, down, and around the trunk and appear as if a machine drilled them. Often the sap will flow down the trunk of the tree. It promotes the growth of black sooty mold. Sometimes these holes are mistaken for insects that bore into the tree trunks. However, the ones caused by insect borers are more randomly scattered throughout the tree.   

     The feeding activity of sapsuckers rarely causes harm to the trees. The holes they make are quite shallow. Many times trees can have hundreds of holes bored into their bark and not suffer at all. In rare cases, if the tree has been weakened due to other factors, such as drought or previous pest activity, there is a remote chance the sapsucker activity could harm the tree.

     The sapsuckers are not easily deterred, so begin the necessary control measures as soon as damage is observed. Use a burlap or hardware cloth to cover the trunk around the area being attacked by the sapsuckers. It will keep them away from the trunk.

Hanging reflective objects in the trees, like aluminum foil or shiny pinwheels, will also discourage the birds since they dislike bright or flashy objects. Leave these devices in place for a few weeks after you have noticed the activity has ceased to make sure the birds do not return. Repetitive loud noises, like a barking dog, can also scare them away. Another method of control is smearing a sticky bird repellent onto the tree trunk. There are several types of these products that are available at most garden centers. Although this material will not hurt the birds, it will cause a tacky feel to the tree's surface, creating discomfort to the birds, thus driving them away. One crucial factor to remember is sapsuckers are classified as migratory, nongame birds. The Federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects them. Killing them by shooting, using toxicants, or any other lethal method is illegal.    

   Sapsuckers are one of nature’s more exciting wonders. Usually, they are best left alone since they seldom pose a threat to the trees they feed.    

Leaves of Three Let it Be

Poison ivy - has an oil that causes skin irritation. Avoid contact. 

  Many homeowners sometimes have an unpleasant encounter with poison ivy. The plant can produce a painful rash that can last for weeks. Frequently, they do not know how to identify the plant.  Once they realize poison ivy is on their property, several methods of control are available.

      Poison ivy is a woody perennial vine or shrub commonly found growing in the forest, along the roadsides, and in the home landscape. The vine is frequently observed climbing trees or other structures. It causes thousands of cases of contact dermatitis (redness, rash, blisters, itching) each year. Everyone working outdoors needs to be familiar with the appearance of the plant. The leaves are soft and arranged alternately on the stem. 

       Each compound leaf consists of three bright green shiny, elliptically shaped leaflets. The small stems between the leaflets have a reddish coloring. Also, mature poison ivy plants ivy have small white berries that are spread by birds. 

Virginia creeper looks similar to poison ivy but
has five leaflets. It is not poisonous.

       All parts of the plant (stems, roots, flowers, and fruit) are poisonous. Even when the leaves have fallen during winter, the bare stems can still cause a rash to anyone who comes into contact with it. The plant contains toxic colorless oil that causes skin irritation. People are often exposed to it when they brush against the plant and bruise the leaves, getting the oil on their skin. Some are highly allergic to it, while others are not quite as sensitive. The toxin can also be spread by equipment, clothing, or animals that come in contact with the plant. If poison ivy is burned, the smoke will carry the oils and harm anyone exposed to the smoke or inhale it. 

      Symptoms usually appear within 12 to 48 hours. If contact with the plant is suspected, wash the affected area with cold water and soap as soon as possible. Avoid using warm water since it will spread the irritating oil on the skin. Rubbing alcohol is also a remedy. Only the toxin can spread the rash, not the fluid contained in the blisters. There are many ointments and lotions that can treat the affected skin. For more severe cases, consult a physician. 

      What should homeowners do to get rid of poison ivy? Continually cutting or mowing the plant will eventually reduce its population. Digging out the individual poison ivy plants from the roots is useful, especially in beds of ornamental plants. When doing so, always wear protective gloves and long sleeve shirts. Wash all clothes thoroughly afterward. 

      The application of herbicides can also control poison ivy. Because it has an extensive root system, two or more applications may be necessary. Several herbicides are useful for managing it, such as Roundup or others labeled for controlling brushy weeds. For best results, apply them on warm sunny days to actively growing plants. Use caution when spraying around desirable plants since misapplication and wind drift could cause damage to them. As with any pesticide, follow all label directions and safety precautions. 

     Being familiar with the appearance of poison ivy will help reduce the likelihood of exposure. It is wise to follow the old saying: “leaves of three let it be.” 

Centipedegrass is Low Maintenance but Does Require Some Upkeep

'TiftBlair' centipedegrass - a newer variety

     Since it requires lower maintenance, centipedegrass is sometimes referred to as "the lazy man's grass." However, the grass is not to be planted and then neglected. Like other turfgrasses, it has specific growth requirements that need to be managed to keep it healthy and attractive. When given appropriate care, centipedegrass will provide a beautiful lush lawn.

      Centipedegrass has a creeping growth habit that spreads by thick above ground runners known as stolons.   It has a light green color and a medium texture with leaf blades wider than those of Bermuda and Zoysia.  It thrives in full sunlight, and although it can handle light shade, the grass starts declining in deeper shade. The plant is adaptable to infertile soils. Since it has a slower growth rate, it requires minimal mowing and fertilization. Centipedegrass does best in somewhat acidic soils, in the pH range of 5.0 to 6.0.  If the pH is higher, the grass may start developing a yellow color. Do not apply lime unless recommended by a soil test.

Centipedegrass has a creeping growth habit. 

      Centipedegrass needs one light application of all-purpose fertilizer in the early summer.  It should be mowed to a height of one to one and a half inches with a sharp mower blade. Maintaining it at this height will promote a deeper root system that helps the grass tolerate periods of sparse rainfall. During dry spells, supplemental irrigation will help keep the grass healthy. Apply enough water for it to penetrate deeply into the root zone. Since the dead parts of the grass do not break down rapidly, thatch can develop. Excessive amounts of fertilizer can increase the problem.  If needed, the lawn should be dethatched by using an aerator, vertical mower or a power rake.

      Centipedegrass can be installed by both sod and seed with May and June being the best times to plant. Centipedegrass seed is somewhat expensive; however, the seeding rate of one quarter to one half of a pound per 1,000 square feet is relatively light, and a bag of seed can go a long way. Since the seeds are quite small, mix them with sand to improve distribution when sowing. The grass can also be established by sod. This method is more expensive; however, it has the advantage of providing an instant lawn.

       Common centipedegrass is the one most frequently planted. Several hybrid varieties are also available. The most popular is 'TiftBlair.'  It can handle cold temperatures better than the common type.  It produces a more robust root system that can penetrate deeper into the soil, making it less susceptible to hot temperatures and dry conditions. 'Oaklawn' and 'Tennessee Hardy' are varieties with improved tolerance to cold, drought and shade. The hybrids must be established through vegetative means, such as sod or sprigs, and cannot be seeded.

      A common affliction of centipedegrass is centipede decline. The condition results from poor cultural practices that interfere with the turfgrass's growth and is not caused by any diseases or insects. A combination of excessive amounts of fertilizer, a pH above 6.0, compact soils, too much water, improper mowing, and the lack of sunlight lead to this disorder. Make sure the centipedegrass receives the appropriate maintenance to reduce the likelihood of the occurrence of this condition.  When applying herbicides to control weeds, always read the label carefully because some herbicides can damage centipedegrass.

      Even though centipedegrass is a relatively easy grass to manage, it does need appropriate maintenance for it to be healthy and attractive. If given the necessary care, it will provide you with a beautiful lawn.

Oakworms are Out Feeding on the Leaves of Oak Trees

In late summers, large black caterpillars appear and feed on the leaves of oak trees. Though they may look threatening, the insects are not a threat to the trees. They are orange-striped oakworms, which are quite common in our area. They defoliate a few branches, but seldom harm the trees. Their droppings can cover the ground beneath. If the presence of the worms are bothersome, the best course of action is to remove the infested branches. Otherwise, they will disappear in time.

Zoysiagrass Lawns are Among the Best

    Since we are well into spring, warm-season grasses like Bermuda, centipede, and Zoysia, have come out of dormancy and turned green.  Zoysia is one of the most beautiful of these grasses. Even though it is not planted as much as some of the others, more area homeowners turn to this type of grass for their lawns. Its coarse to fine texture, bright green color, and ability to form a dense stand of grass has many positive attributes. Zoysia is sometimes referred to as the “Mercedes” of turfgrasses because of its excellent appearance, its higher cost to establish, and its requirement of a higher level of maintenance than other turfgrasses. Even when it turns brown and goes dormant during the winter, it still maintains a neat and tidy appearance.   

   Zoysia needs full sun, although it is tolerant of light shade; however, it will thin out and deteriorate in deep shade. The lawn requires moderate levels of fertilizer; a soil test will help determine what amounts are necessary. Supplemental water is needed during prolonged dry spells, but the soil needs to have adequate drainage - if the water puddles after irrigation or rainfall, the grass will suffer and decline. Zoysia is prone to develop thatch, especially if heavily fertilized. The lawn should be aerated every two to three years with a hollow tine aerator to reduce thatch and to alleviate soil compaction.

     Zoysia is established by sod or sprigs and should be installed during warmer weather when the grass is green, not during the colder weather when it is dormant. Zoysia has a slower growth rate than other types of grasses and takes more time to become established. Thus, it requires less mowing. However, if scalped or damaged in any way, it takes longer to recover. Ideally, Zoysia should be cut with a reel mower, but a rotary mower with a sharp blade will provide an attractive cut. The grass should be mowed at the height of one to two inches. During hot, dry weather, raise the mowing height one-half inch.

     Several varieties of Zoysia are available. ‘Meyer,’ one of the most popular, has a medium texture, is tolerant to cold temperatures, and spreads more rapidly than other Zoysia hybrids. ‘Emerald’ Zoysia is an attractive fine-textured hybrid with a dark green color and is best suited for high-quality lawns with a good maintenance program. However, it does tend to develop excess thatch at a more rapid rate, and it is less tolerant of extreme cold. ‘El Toro’ is a relatively new hybrid that was developed in California. It has a similar appearance to ‘Emerald’ and grows faster than other Zoysia hybrids. ‘El Toro’ is the most tolerant of being cut with a rotary mower and produces less thatch. ‘Zeon’ has an intermediate growth habit, excellent drought tolerance, and is adaptable to different soil types.

     If you are willing to make the investment and provide the appropriate care, consider growing Zoysia. It will thrive and beautify the home landscape. With Zoysia, your lawn can be the envy of the neighborhood.

                                            

Seeds from China Appearing in the Mail

Please see the following news release from the Georgia Department of Agriculture:

CONSUMER ADVISORY

Beware unsolicited packages of seed

The Georgia Department of Agriculture has been notified that several Georgia residents have received unsolicited packages containing seeds that appear to have originated from China. Recipients are strongly advised not to open the packages or plant the seeds. “At this time, we are not sure what the seeds are and therefore are urging everyone to be exceedingly vigilant,” Georgia Agriculture Commissioner Gary W. Black says.  “If you have received one of these packages in the mail, please use extreme caution by not touching the contents and securing the package in a plastic bag.” The types of seeds in the packages are unknown at this time and may be invasive plant species. The packages were sent by mail and may have Chinese writing on them. Invasive species wreak havoc on the environment, displace or destroy native plants and insects and severely damage crops. Taking steps to prevent their introduction is the most effective method of reducing both the risk of invasive species infestations and the cost to control and mitigate those infestations. Anyone who has received unsolicited seeds in the mail from China or any other country is encouraged to contact the GDA Seed Lab at 229-386-3145 or email SeedLab@agr.georgia.gov

Murder Hornets Facts: They are not Present in Our Area

Asian Giant Hornet aka 'Murder Hornet.' Photograph by Hanna Royals, Museum Collection, USDA-APHIS-PPQ

Recent news reports about ‘Murder Hornets’ appearing in the United States have many people concerned. We need to separate fact from fiction regarding these insects. The hornet is actually called the Asian Giant Hornet (Vespa mandarina) and is native to East Asia. They get their name for preying on honeybees. The hornets can grow up to two inches long and can inflict painful stings. They have appeared in a few areas of Washington State and nowhere else. No reports of them from our area. Sometimes people mistake the European hornet and the cicada-killer wasp for murder hornets, but they are not.

Cicada Killer Wasps. Photograph by Jessica Louque, Smithers Vincent

European hornet. Photograph by Jim Baker, North Carolina State University

Beware of Herbicide Damage

Most of us apply herbicides to control the many weeds that trouble our lawn and gardens. However, care must be taken to avoid them from coming into contact with desirable plant material. Use care to avoid drift, which is caused by air movement and vaporization during hot weather. Avoid applications on windy days or when the temperature is over 85 degrees. Thoroughly read and follow all label directions.  Some selective herbicides can be applied to some types of turfgrasses and not others. For example, atrazine provides excelent weed control for St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass, but is detrimental to bemrudagrass, zoysiagrass and tall fescuegrass. When applying herbicides to lawns, keep the chemicals off the roots of the tree and shrubs since it can be absorbed causing damage. 

A crape myrtle that is suffering from Round Up damage.

In regards to your vegetable garden, avoid any herbicide applications since anything that will kill the weeds can harm the vegetables. Handpulling and hoeing are the best options. 

Tomatoes damaged by the application of 2,4-D herbicide to a lawn.

As with any pesticide, follow all label directions when using.

St. Augustinegrass Lawns Attractive but Challenging

St. Augustinegrass thrives in filtered shade but not deep shade

     St. Augustinegrass is an attractive turfgrass that has large flat stems and broad, coarse blue-green leaves. It forms a dense, thick turf that spreads by long, thick above-ground runners. St. Augustinegrass is similar in appearance to centipedegrass, but its leaf blades are wider, and the tip of it does not have as sharp a point. It is the most shade-tolerant warm-season grass thriving in filtered shade but not deep shade. St. Augustinegrass lawns are established by sod or sprigs, not by seed. When properly installed and maintained, a St. Augustinegrass can be a beautiful lawn for homeowners.

    St. Augustinegrass is the lawn of choice in South Georgia and Florida. In North Georgia, winter temperatures can drop to levels that can potentially harm the lawn.  However, many St. Augustinegrass lawns in our area have survived the past couple of cold winters without suffering from any significant damage. Newer varieties have been developed in recent years that can tolerate colder temperatures.

          St. Augustinegrass have wide leaf blades giving it a coarse texture.
Foliage is blue-green

   It requires low to medium maintenance. It does best on well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Proper and timely applications are essential to maintain a healthy lawn. Have the soil tested through the Gwinnett County Extension office to determine the fertility needs and the rates of fertilizer that need to be applied.  Applying all-purpose turf fertilizer after the lawn has come out of winter dormancy and greened in the spring and again in early summer. Do not use any fertilizer after the end of August as doing so will delay it from going into winter dormancy, thus increasing the chances of cold damage.  St. Augustinegrass should be mowed at the height of two to three inches. Mowing it too low can increase its susceptibility to drought stress, insect, and disease problems. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf blade at one time.  St. Augustinegrass is tolerant of dry conditions, but it will need supplemental water applications during prolonged dry spells for the lawn to maintain an optimal appearance.

      Thatch can sometimes be a problem, mainly if the lawn receives excessive amounts of water, high nitrogen fertilizer, and is mowed too high. Thatch is a layer of roots, stems, and shoots between the soil surface and the leaf blades that have not completely decomposed. If it gets over one-half of an inch thick, it can harbor insects, diseases and disrupt the penetration of air and water. Avoid applications of excessive amounts of water and fertilizer. If thatch is a problem, use a hollow tine core aerator during the growing season to break up the layer. This machine has tines that pull out one inch long cores in a pattern across the soil, thus allowing for improved air and water infiltration and better root growth.

       St. Augustinegrass is highly susceptible to chinch bugs, which are small silver to black insects one-eighth of an inch long. The main symptom of chinch bug activity is patches of yellow to brown areas of dead grass that begins to spread. The insects are most problematic during periods of hot, dry weather and are most active in the lawn areas in full sun.  If you suspect chinch bugs are infesting the lawn, get a tin can and cut off both ends. Push the can into the soil where the green, healthy grass transitions into the affected grass and fill it with water. The chinch bugs will float to the surface. Chinch bugs can be controlled by insecticides labeled for treating insects in St. Augustinegrass lawns. Keeping the grass healthy through proper cultural management methods will improve the lawn’s resistance to chinch bug infestations.

Chinch bugs can be troublesome on St. Augistinegaras lawns.

What to do about That Hornets Nest

A bald faced hornets nest. Photograph by Jerry Payne,
USDA -ARS, bugwood.org

UGA Extension Gwinnett has received calls from several homeowners concerning hornet nests on their properties. They are concerned about them and the potential hazard these stinging insects can pose. The hornets are only a threat when they are close enough to the ground where people can come into contact with the nests. If they are high up in a tree or in another similar location, they are not a threat. Hornets only attack when people mess with their nests or if you try to handle one. In these out of the way locations, they are not troublesome. In fact, the hornets are beneficial in that they consume harmful insects. You best course of action is to leave them alone.

However, if the hornets nests is located where they could sting people, get some flying insect aerosol spray, such as the Raid® products, and apply according to label directions. Wait until early in the morning or later in the afternoon, when the hornets are not as active. Stand back several feet from the next and direct the spray to the entrance hole. Apply enough to saturate it. This action should kill the insects.

2020 UGA Trial Gardens 'Plants of Distinction' for 2020

Begonia 'Top Hat' Pink, a winner of the 2018 UGA Trail
Gardens Plants of Distinction 

The University of Georgia Horticulture Department has its Trail Garden located on the main Athens campus behind the pharmacy building. It has been there a long time. I remember doing some work there during my undergraduate studies in the 1980s. Many seed companies send new releases of herbaceous ornamental annuals and perennials to the UGA Department of Horticulture. The Trail Gardens grows the plants and evaluates how well they do in our climate. Then they generate a report to the seed companies on which ones performed well and which ones did not. Then they compare these results to data on the plants grown at other trial gardens across the nation.  Please refer to their website at: https://ugatrial.hort.uga.edu/

     Each year they release their annual Plants of Distinction, which are ones that have the best appearance and overall performance. Click here to see a list of ones for 2020: https://tinyurl.com/yckp4msh.

See the following pictures of the gardens in bloom:

Fire Ants are Troublesome but Their Impact Can Be Minimized

Fire ants can have colonies consisting of large numbers of aggressive ants.

Over the weekend, I mowed my lawn and noticed a substantial number of fire ant mounds in my yard. With the cooler weather and rainfall, they have become more active and visible. Fire ants are one of the homeowner’s worst nightmares. They inflict painful stings on anyone who comes into contact with them. Their bite can cause allergic reactions in susceptible individuals. The ants also build unsightly nests in lawns as well as forage for food inside homes and other structures. They will aggressively defend their mounds if disturbed. Managing fire ant infestations is possible, although challenging.

      Fire ants are an invasive insect native to South America. They were accidentally imported into this country through Mobile, AL back in the 1930s. They have spread throughout the southeastern United States and are continuing to move north and west.  Our favorable climate has allowed them to become established. Unfortunately, there are no silver bullets for controlling fire ants. The goal of any treatment is to eliminate fire ants where the risk to people is high and to reduce infestations to minimal levels. The main objective of any control measure is to kill the queen since she is the only one capable of reproducing, and without her, the whole colony will die off.

     There are three strategies when using chemical pesticides. The first one involves broadcasting baits, which are insecticides mixed with a food source that attracts the ants. Make sure the ground is dry before broadcasting. Worker ants carry the bait into their mounds and feed it to the queen. Eventually, the whole colony will die. This process may take a week or more.

     The second strategy is treating the individual mounds with an insecticidal drench, which consists of an insecticide diluted in water. The drench is quite effective in controlling the ants if it penetrates to the bottom of the mound.

     The third strategy is to apply a granular insecticide labeled for the control of fire ants. These products can take a few days to a week to work. The application of the granules can help prevent new infestations in the treated area. Remember, when using pesticides, follow all label directions and safety precautions.

     An alternative to using pesticides is pouring boiling water on top of the mounds. Apply when the ants are close to the surface as on a sunny, cool day. The treatment usually kills most of the ants, although sometimes you will have to retreat the mounds will have to. Research has shown grits, and other homemade remedies are ineffective.

     If the fire ants are coming indoors, remove open food sources, and seal any holes or cracks around doors or windows. Locate the fire ant mounds outside and treat them to reduce the numbers that may be going indoors.

     Fire ants can be a real menace, but they can be brought under control by using the appropriate measures. Doing so will reduce the chances of you coming into contact with them and suffering from the painful stings they inflict.

Peaches Troubled by Brown Rot Fungal Disease (Among Others)

Brown rot fungal disease a challenge to growing peaches.

    Many residents who are growing peaches are observing them turning brown and mushy. The cause is brown rot fungal disease. The fungus is quite problematic in peaches and several other fruit trees, especially with the recent rain and high humidity. Please refer to the spray guide for peaches from the Georgia Pest Management Handbook for homeowners at https://tinyurl.com/ycc9evtl. Scroll down a few pages to where you come to the information on peaches. Make sure you follow all label directions when using pesticides.

   Peaches are a challenge for the home gardener in that they suffer from many insects and diseases and must be sprayed on a schedule to ensure your get peaches. Consider planting fruit trees that do not suffer from the level of pests that peaches do such as blueberries, blackberries and figs.

Flying Ants vs. Winged Termites: What is the Difference

The difference between an ant and a termite.

Many area homeowners are observing swarms of small insects in flight by their homes. Are they ants or termites. Flying ants have constricted waists, the front pair of wings longer than the rear, and elbowed antennae. Termites have a straight waist, both pairs of wings the same size, and straight antennae. If you determine they are termites, the insects may or may not be infesting your home. Have a licensed pest control professional do a thorough inspection to determine if a problem does exist and offer ways to mitigate the infestation.