Tall Fescuegrass: Fall is the Optimal Time to Seed and Install Sod

 

The months of September and October are best for renovating and installing
fescue lawns

    Tall fescue is a popular grass in our area and is easily established through seed or sod. The turf is a cool season grass meaning it grows best when the temperatures are lower and holds its green color during the winter months whereas warm season grasses, such as bermuda and zoysia, have gone dormant and turned brown. During the hot, dry conditions of summer, the grass requires the addition of supplemental water to stay green and healthy.

      The best time of the year to plant tall fescue is September into mid-October. Seeding it too early in the season can cause heat stress and diseases; however, when planting late in the season, the grass may not become fully established due to freezing temperatures. Applications during the spring are not advisable because, although the seed will germinate, it has insufficient time to get established prior to the onset of the summer heat. Soil preparation is the most important aspect of caring for a fescue lawn. The grass prefers fertile, well-drained soils with a soil pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Make sure you have the soil tested through UGA Extension Gwinnett to determine the pH and nutrient needs.

      Most established fescue lawns need to be periodically reseeded since they tend to thin out over time. Since our soils are mostly clay, they are easily compacted by rain, irrigation, foot traffic, and the intense summer heat, which decreases the ability of the roots to grow, for air and water to penetrate into the soil. To reduce compaction, use a hollow tine core aerator every two to four years, which is available from rental stores or garden centers.  The tines poke holes into the ground and pull out small one to two-inch-long “cores.” The deposition of the small cores of soil on top of the ground also assists reducing compaction. Mow the grass down to one and one-half inches to help improve the ease of aerating the soil and for the seed to make soil contact before aerating. When using the machine, do so in a criss-cross direction by first going over the entire lawn, back and forth in one direction and then go back and forth at right angles to the first series of trips. If you are not aerating, use a steel rake to break up the soil in bare areas to ensure the seed gets into the soil.

    The seed purchased should be of high quality to ensure a high percent of germination and minimal weed content, and should have this information listed on the tag. Apply the seed at the rate of five to seven pounds per 1,000 square feet. Resist the temptation to use more seed since closely growing seedlings compete with each other for water and nutrients in addition to being more susceptible to disease. One of the most commonly used fescue seed has been Kentucky-31. However, new improved cultivated varieties, such as ‘Southeast,’ ‘Rebel,’ and ‘Tenacity,’ are more attractive cultivars and are referred to as "turf-type" tall fescues. They have finer leaf blades, lower growth habit, darker green color, greater density and more tolerance to heat and shade than K-31.

      After over-seeding has been completed, the upper one-inch soil needs to be kept moist during the time the seed is germinating by thorough applications of water two to three. Refrain from mowing for a couple of weeks after the seed has been applied, and then mow at the height of two to three inches.

    With proper preparation and planning, and using the appropriate cultural methods to maintain the fescue plot, you will have an attractive and healthy lawn giving you an exceptionally lush, green carpet of grass throughout the year.

Mushrooms in the Lawn

Mushrooms are the reproductive structures of naturally occurring soil fungi

    Many residents have contacted the Extension office concerned about a large number of mushrooms that have appeared in their lawns of recent. They have contacted the Extension office asking what can be done to get rid of the mushrooms and prevent them form appearing again. The answer is nothing. Mushrooms are the reproductive structures of fungi that are growing in the soil that feed on decomposing organic matter. They are everywhere though their mycelium, which are like stems and roots, are seldom visible. No chemicals will prevent their appearance. The fungi are nature doing its thing - decomposing organic material and returning nutrients to the soil. If they are bothersome, use a lawnmower to mow them down or hand pull. 
    Never eat any mushrooms found growing in the wild. While some are edible, they are hard to distinguish from the poisonous ones. 

Lawn Tips for Late August

Once the weather cools down in September, you can seed or sod tall fescue grass.

UGA Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz has these tips for your lawn for the end of August:

By mid-August, turf care begins to shift. Warm-season turfgrass is nearing the close of its establishment window, while it’s too early yet for establishing cool season turf. 

• Split applications of fertilizer for warm-season turf continues through October, but it’s too early yet for fertilizing cool season turf. 
• Continue to monitor for diseases, such as brown patch, dollar spot, or Pythium blight, affecting both cool- and warm-season turfgrasses. 
• Insect activity may still be high. Monitor frequently for pests, such as chinch bugs, mole crickets, sod webworms, or grubs. 

Ashikaga Flower Park Japan

The Ashikaga Flower Park in Japan has beautiful displays of wisteria and other plants. It looks more like something out of a fantasy would. Please check out their website and the pictures below.

https://www.ashikaga.co.jp/english/

Water Conservation for Lawns

Here is a brief update on lawns by University of Georgia Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz, Ph.D.:

     All living things need water to survive, albeit a different amount for different organisms. For plants, supplemental water from irrigation is sometimes needed between natural rainfall events. Fortunately, turfgrass is a fairly robust plant that needs relatively little water for survival.

     Many factors influence the amount and frequency of water needed for turfgrass within a home lawn. Soil type, type of grass, fertility level, frequency of rain, temperature, wind, and humidity all affect the amount of water needed. A high-level fertilization and hot, windy days tend to increase the demand for water, while low level fertilization and cool, cloudy days tend to decrease the demand for water.

     One way of conditioning the turfgrass to need less supplemental irrigation or, to remain green between periodic summer rain showers is to tolerate some moisture stress. An observable characteristic of moisture stress in turfgrass is wilt. Wilt is a physiological defense mechanism of the turfgrass plant and allowing some moisture stress actually triggers the plant to initiate rooting, allowing the turfgrass to explore a greater soil volume for water reserves.

     Before watering, look for visual symptoms of water stress, such as gray color, leaf cupping/curling, or footprints remaining on the lawn after walking across it. Observing some moisture stress within the lawn prior to applying irrigation can be good and improve the sustainability of the grass. Daily irrigation of turfgrass produces short roots incapable of tolerating periodic drought stress. Most established turfgrasses in Georgia only need one inch of water per week. Irrigation should be applied to supplement rainfall.

     Apply enough water to wet the soil to a depth of five to seven inches. Do not apply water until runoff occurs. If water is being applied faster than the soil can absorb it, turn the irrigation off and allow the existing moisture to move into the soil, then apply the remaining irrigation to achieve 1.0 inch.

      Pay attention to the weather. Reduce the amount you water when it is raining or cloudy. Avoid irrigation schedules that apply more water than the turf may need. Prior to sunrise is the best time to water because of less wind and lower temperature. Research indicates water loss at night through evaporation may be 50 percent less than during midday irrigation.

    Employing some best management practices (BMPs) like tolerating some wilt, allowing water to move into the soil, and not watering during the heat of the day can conserve water and maintain a healthy, attractive lawn.

Strange Webs in Trees: The Work of Fall Webworms

Fall Webworms appearing in trees throughout the area.

   The Extension office has received numerous calls from homeowners concerned about strange webs that have appeared in some of the trees in their home landscapes. A common misconception is that they are the result of some spider. The cause is an insect called the fall webworm. They appear in late summer and early fall and attack a multitude of plants, including many fruits, nut and ornamental trees and shrubs. In some cases the webs are so numerous they can cause the tree branches to break. Infestations are unsightly but rarely harmful to the trees.

    The fall webworm is a caterpillar; the larval stage of a small white moth. Full-grown caterpillars are approximately 1-inch long, pale green or yellow, and covered with tufts of long, white and black hairs. The insects often cover entire branches with their webs. The larvae feed within the web, eating leaf tissue between the leaf veins. The larvae drop off the tree and enclose themselves in cocoons. They spend the winter as pupae in silken cocoons on the ground or the bark of the tree. In the spring, the moths emerge from their cocoons, disperse and mate. Female moths deposit their eggs on the undersides of the leaves of plants they like to eat. The webworm eggs hatch later in the season, and the larvae begin to build the web. As the larvae consume leaves within the web, they expand the web to take in more and more foliage.

     Often the insect is confused with the Eastern tent caterpillar, which spins webs during the spring in the crotches of the trees. Fall webworms make their webs in the outer limbs of the trees in the autumn.

Eastern tent caterpillars build their nest in the crotches of trees.
They are active in the early spring

      The caterpillars can be controlled without insecticides. You can destroy the webs by using a long pole with a hook on the end and pull the webs down. Larvae can also be knocked out of lower branches with a stick or broom, or simple pruned. Many beneficial insects attack the egg and larval stages of fall webworm. You can help these predators and parasites get to their fall webworm prey by tearing open the webs.

      If webs are too numerous or too high in a tree to reach, sometimes insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to kill the insects. Hose-end sprayers or commercial high-pressure sprayers are best for reaching upper portions of tall trees. Use caution when applying insecticides above your head and wear all the proper protective clothing required on the chemical label, insecticide sprays must penetrate the web deeply to be effective since the webbing is quite tough and difficult for the spray to get in. Please make sure you follow all label directions and safety precautions when applying pesticides.

    The webs caused by the fall webworms seldom harm the trees. Often just ignoring them and leaving them in the trees is the best course of action to take.

Sugar Maples Make a Great Snack for Sapsuckers

 

Holes in rows caused by sapsuckers

What are the small holes that are spaced in horizontal rows across the bark in some trees? Sometimes there is a dark coloration of the bark below. What is causing this, and could it harm the trees? The holes are the result of the activity of sapsuckers, a species of woodpeckers feed on the tree’s sap.

     Sapsuckers are migratory birds that are most prevalent during the spring and fall. They prefer maple trees, but will also feed on pecans, Bradford pears, and several others. The birds choose these trees due to the high sugar content of their sap. It composes up to 20% of their diet and is especially crucial during the year when other food sources are in short supply. The birds also eat insects they find on the trees. They peck a small hole, roughly one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch in diameter and a depth of one-quarter of an inch in the tree's trunk. They will then use their tongue to suck up the sap. The holes are evenly spaced up, down, and around the trunk and appear as if a machine drilled them. Often the sap will flow down the trunk of the tree. It promotes the growth of black sooty mold. Sometimes these holes are mistaken for insects that bore into the tree trunks. However, the ones caused by insect borers are more randomly scattered throughout the tree.   

     The feeding activity of sapsuckers rarely causes harm to the trees. The holes they make are quite shallow. Many times trees can have hundreds of holes bored into their bark and not suffer at all. In rare cases, if the tree has been weakened due to other factors, such as drought or previous pest activity, there is a remote chance the sapsucker activity could harm the tree.

     The sapsuckers are not easily deterred, so begin the necessary control measures as soon as damage is observed. Use a burlap or hardware cloth to cover the trunk around the area being attacked by the sapsuckers. It will keep them away from the trunk.

Hanging reflective objects in the trees, like aluminum foil or shiny pinwheels, will also discourage the birds since they dislike bright or flashy objects. Leave these devices in place for a few weeks after you have noticed the activity has ceased to make sure the birds do not return. Repetitive loud noises, like a barking dog, can also scare them away. Another method of control is smearing a sticky bird repellent onto the tree trunk. There are several types of these products that are available at most garden centers. Although this material will not hurt the birds, it will cause a tacky feel to the tree's surface, creating discomfort to the birds, thus driving them away. One crucial factor to remember is sapsuckers are classified as migratory, nongame birds. The Federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects them. Killing them by shooting, using toxicants, or any other lethal method is illegal.    

   Sapsuckers are one of nature’s more exciting wonders. Usually, they are best left alone since they seldom pose a threat to the trees they feed.    

Leaves of Three Let it Be

Poison ivy - has an oil that causes skin irritation. Avoid contact. 

  Many homeowners sometimes have an unpleasant encounter with poison ivy. The plant can produce a painful rash that can last for weeks. Frequently, they do not know how to identify the plant.  Once they realize poison ivy is on their property, several methods of control are available.

      Poison ivy is a woody perennial vine or shrub commonly found growing in the forest, along the roadsides, and in the home landscape. The vine is frequently observed climbing trees or other structures. It causes thousands of cases of contact dermatitis (redness, rash, blisters, itching) each year. Everyone working outdoors needs to be familiar with the appearance of the plant. The leaves are soft and arranged alternately on the stem. 

       Each compound leaf consists of three bright green shiny, elliptically shaped leaflets. The small stems between the leaflets have a reddish coloring. Also, mature poison ivy plants ivy have small white berries that are spread by birds. 

Virginia creeper looks similar to poison ivy but
has five leaflets. It is not poisonous.

       All parts of the plant (stems, roots, flowers, and fruit) are poisonous. Even when the leaves have fallen during winter, the bare stems can still cause a rash to anyone who comes into contact with it. The plant contains toxic colorless oil that causes skin irritation. People are often exposed to it when they brush against the plant and bruise the leaves, getting the oil on their skin. Some are highly allergic to it, while others are not quite as sensitive. The toxin can also be spread by equipment, clothing, or animals that come in contact with the plant. If poison ivy is burned, the smoke will carry the oils and harm anyone exposed to the smoke or inhale it. 

      Symptoms usually appear within 12 to 48 hours. If contact with the plant is suspected, wash the affected area with cold water and soap as soon as possible. Avoid using warm water since it will spread the irritating oil on the skin. Rubbing alcohol is also a remedy. Only the toxin can spread the rash, not the fluid contained in the blisters. There are many ointments and lotions that can treat the affected skin. For more severe cases, consult a physician. 

      What should homeowners do to get rid of poison ivy? Continually cutting or mowing the plant will eventually reduce its population. Digging out the individual poison ivy plants from the roots is useful, especially in beds of ornamental plants. When doing so, always wear protective gloves and long sleeve shirts. Wash all clothes thoroughly afterward. 

      The application of herbicides can also control poison ivy. Because it has an extensive root system, two or more applications may be necessary. Several herbicides are useful for managing it, such as Roundup or others labeled for controlling brushy weeds. For best results, apply them on warm sunny days to actively growing plants. Use caution when spraying around desirable plants since misapplication and wind drift could cause damage to them. As with any pesticide, follow all label directions and safety precautions. 

     Being familiar with the appearance of poison ivy will help reduce the likelihood of exposure. It is wise to follow the old saying: “leaves of three let it be.” 

Centipedegrass is Low Maintenance but Does Require Some Upkeep

'TiftBlair' centipedegrass - a newer variety

     Since it requires lower maintenance, centipedegrass is sometimes referred to as "the lazy man's grass." However, the grass is not to be planted and then neglected. Like other turfgrasses, it has specific growth requirements that need to be managed to keep it healthy and attractive. When given appropriate care, centipedegrass will provide a beautiful lush lawn.

      Centipedegrass has a creeping growth habit that spreads by thick above ground runners known as stolons.   It has a light green color and a medium texture with leaf blades wider than those of Bermuda and Zoysia.  It thrives in full sunlight, and although it can handle light shade, the grass starts declining in deeper shade. The plant is adaptable to infertile soils. Since it has a slower growth rate, it requires minimal mowing and fertilization. Centipedegrass does best in somewhat acidic soils, in the pH range of 5.0 to 6.0.  If the pH is higher, the grass may start developing a yellow color. Do not apply lime unless recommended by a soil test.

Centipedegrass has a creeping growth habit. 

      Centipedegrass needs one light application of all-purpose fertilizer in the early summer.  It should be mowed to a height of one to one and a half inches with a sharp mower blade. Maintaining it at this height will promote a deeper root system that helps the grass tolerate periods of sparse rainfall. During dry spells, supplemental irrigation will help keep the grass healthy. Apply enough water for it to penetrate deeply into the root zone. Since the dead parts of the grass do not break down rapidly, thatch can develop. Excessive amounts of fertilizer can increase the problem.  If needed, the lawn should be dethatched by using an aerator, vertical mower or a power rake.

      Centipedegrass can be installed by both sod and seed with May and June being the best times to plant. Centipedegrass seed is somewhat expensive; however, the seeding rate of one quarter to one half of a pound per 1,000 square feet is relatively light, and a bag of seed can go a long way. Since the seeds are quite small, mix them with sand to improve distribution when sowing. The grass can also be established by sod. This method is more expensive; however, it has the advantage of providing an instant lawn.

       Common centipedegrass is the one most frequently planted. Several hybrid varieties are also available. The most popular is 'TiftBlair.'  It can handle cold temperatures better than the common type.  It produces a more robust root system that can penetrate deeper into the soil, making it less susceptible to hot temperatures and dry conditions. 'Oaklawn' and 'Tennessee Hardy' are varieties with improved tolerance to cold, drought and shade. The hybrids must be established through vegetative means, such as sod or sprigs, and cannot be seeded.

      A common affliction of centipedegrass is centipede decline. The condition results from poor cultural practices that interfere with the turfgrass's growth and is not caused by any diseases or insects. A combination of excessive amounts of fertilizer, a pH above 6.0, compact soils, too much water, improper mowing, and the lack of sunlight lead to this disorder. Make sure the centipedegrass receives the appropriate maintenance to reduce the likelihood of the occurrence of this condition.  When applying herbicides to control weeds, always read the label carefully because some herbicides can damage centipedegrass.

      Even though centipedegrass is a relatively easy grass to manage, it does need appropriate maintenance for it to be healthy and attractive. If given the necessary care, it will provide you with a beautiful lawn.

Oakworms are Out Feeding on the Leaves of Oak Trees

In late summers, large black caterpillars appear and feed on the leaves of oak trees. Though they may look threatening, the insects are not a threat to the trees. They are orange-striped oakworms, which are quite common in our area. They defoliate a few branches, but seldom harm the trees. Their droppings can cover the ground beneath. If the presence of the worms are bothersome, the best course of action is to remove the infested branches. Otherwise, they will disappear in time.