Preventing Termites in Georgia Homes

                                  

    Border to border, the state of Georgia enjoys mild temperatures and more than adequate rainfall, which are perfect conditions for the growth of an abundance of insects, including subterranean termites.

    Georgia is part of what entomologists and pest management professionals refer to as “the termite belt,” where termites are common and abundant.

     Subterranean termites are the most common type of termite found in Georgia, and the yard of most homes in Georgia will be occupied by one or more related groups of termites, sometimes called colonies. They are called subterranean because they require access to moisture, which is most commonly found in the soil.      

     Termites eat wood, and because we build homes with a substantial quantity of structural softwood, it is not surprising that some homes may become infested by this hidden pests. Subterranean termites are persistent. They never stop looking for sources of food and, when they locate and infest structural wood, can do moderate to substantial damage if infestations go unchecked. It is therefore important that homeowners are aware of common signs pointing to termite infestation.

      First, homeowners should be aware of what a termite swarmer looks like. Swarmers are male and female termites that fly in the spring each year — most commonly February to April in Georgia.

      Soon after flying, swarmers lose their wings, mate and begin a new colony. Another important, outward sign that homeowners should be able to recognize are the telltale mud tubes that termites use to move between their soil home and the wood on which they are feeding.

     Termites build hollow mud tubes comprised of moist soil and their own saliva to protect them from predators and from desiccation (drying up). When mud- or soil-like tubing is found anywhere in or on the structure, where it should not be, there is a chance it might be the soil tubing made by worker termites to gain access to the wood in the structure.

      Should homeowners suspect that their homes might be infested by termites, it’s a good idea to contact a local termite and pest control company for an inspection. Employees of Georgia’s termite control companies are trained on the nuances of termite control and are uniquely qualified to provide this service.

       Pertinent publications to address homeowner questions include University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Bulletin 1209, “Biology of Subterranean Termites in the Eastern United States,” and UGA Extension Bulletin 1241, “Termite Control Services: Information for the Georgia Property Owner,” which can be found at extension.uga.edu/publications.

By Dan Suiter, Extension entomologist with the University of Georgia Department of Entomology

Container Gardening is an Option for Those with Minimal Space

Ornamental sweet potatoes, geraniums, petunias and
other annuals
create an attractive container planting

    If you lack the space for a garden or if your yard requires the necessary elements to produce the garden you have always wanted, consider the possibility of container gardening. Growing plants in containers are possible even on the smallest patio or porch. Some of the containers used are planter boxes, wooden barrels, hanging baskets, and large flowerpots. The idea is a result of a strong desire to produce herbs, vegetables, and flowers within a limited space and to enjoy plants in places where traditional gardening is difficult.

Hanging baskets of attractive herbaceous flowers can
brighten any spot.

   Where do you get started? Ask yourself what type of container gardens you want. It could be merely hanging baskets or larger planters. Container gardening can be very creative with many possibilities. Each container used should complement the plant aesthetically and functionally. Consider using terra-cotta planters with individual holes where you can cultivate your fruit or herbs, and strawberries. The container size, material, and shape should be conducive to the plant's health and the surroundings. If using wooden troughs or baskets, the wood needs to be of good quality. The wood should be finished with a plant-proof preserver. On barrels, make sure that the hoops are secure.  

Hostas and other herbaceous plants make excellent container plants.

      Fill the containers with a soil-less mix that retains the water, nutrients, and oxygen needed for plant growth. Fertilize with a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer periodically weekly to container plantings or mix a dry, organic, slow-release fertilizer. All container plants require frequent watering. Mix the material, and add water to the mix thoroughly before seeding or transplanting. Feel the soil to determine whether it is damp. Mulching and windbreaks can help reduce water requirements. If you plan to be away for extended periods, consider installing an automatic trickle irrigation system. Many different types of plants can be grown in containers. Many varieties of fruits, vegetables, and herbs perform well in containers. Vegetables, herbs, flowers, and other plants can be mixed and grown together. Several herbs together can be grown in a wooden trough or large terra cotta pot. Growing vegetables and herbs in containers do need to be grown in straight rows or tidy raised beds. The plants can be sheltered during periods of intense summer heat. But the containers need to be watered, fertilized, and provided with the appropriate levels of light.

    Many types of flowers can be grown in containers: Annuals such as marigolds and petunias provide color to any setting; zinnias, perform well in intense heat; perennials need more year-round attention. They require occasional fertilization, and you may need to trim those scraggly stems. Bulbs, like tulips, can be planted in the fall. Daffodils are easier to grow than tulips and can last year to year. Bulbs need to be kept watered, even during the cold weather months. Cacti and ferns also are suited for container gardening. And do not forget houseplants.

   With a little creativity, container gardening can be an enjoyable way to grow plants in tight spaces. Beautiful container gardens do not happen. By using a few fundamental principles are applied, even the novice gardener can create and maintain attractive container gardens.

Why Some Warm Season Grasses are Slow to Green Up

  Some warm season grass lawns (Zoysiagrass and

Bermudagrass) have been slow to come out of 

         winter dormancy due to the cool weather 

condition this spring. 

UGA Extension Gwinnett has received numerous calls from both homeowners and professionals concerning their warm season grass lawns, mostly bermudagrass and zoysiagrass being slow to green up. UGA Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz has written the following to address the issue:

While it is the end of May and many warm-season grass species have greened-up, some

bermudagrass and zoysiagrass lawns still have a significant amount of old, brown, leaf material

in them. This is likely the result of several compounding factors. The impact of last fall’s long,

hot, dry weather are likely affecting green-up this season, especially in non-irrigated lawns. A

second factor influencing green-up could be all the rainfall this winter. Water is a good buffer of

heat. Meaning that it takes more energy (i.e. from the sun) to warm a wet soil than a dry soil. To date, the average four-inch soil temperature for the entire month of May in Griffin, GA – central for the state – is 71.2 degree. That is 5.6 degrees lower than for the same time last year. Similarly, the average maximum air temperature this May has been 8 degrees cooler than May 2019. Lastly, of the pictures, descriptions, and observations I have made, the lawns with considerable brown have a higher mowing height than is recommended for bermudagrass and zoysiagrass. The mowing range should be one to two inches. The extra leaf canopy and thatch can act as an insulator, like the pink stuff in your attic and walls, preventing the sun’s energy from warming the soil quickly. For these lawns I have suggested the grass be mowed as low as possible and remove all the leaf biomass. The objective is to open the turf canopy, permitting sunlight to reach the soil surface. Taking it a step further, consider core aerification. Opening holes into the soil profile permits warm air into the root zone, warming the soil from the inside-out. By warming the soil, rhizomes will initiate new shoots, eventually reaching the soil surface and thickening the lawn

What do those numbers on the fertilizer bag mean?

Fertilizer analysis of this bag: 5% nitrogen,
10% phosphorus, and 15% potassium

     Fertilizers are frequently applied to plant material as a supplement because the soil does not supply enough of the needed nutrients. Many types of fertilizers exist, and not all are created equal. By knowing some basics about fertilizers and the various types, you can choose one that will be the most beneficial.

     Before applying fertilizer, consider having your soil tested through Gwinnett County Extension. The results will show the nutrient status and the relative acidity of the soil (pH) through soil testing. Applying fertilizer without a soil test can result in the application of too much or too little lime and fertilizer required for optimum growth

     Plants require several nutrients for sustenance. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the ones they need in the highest quantity whereas sulfur, magnesium and calcium are needed in lesser amounts. Some nutrients, such as zinc, iron, and manganese, are only required in small quantities.

     The numbers on the fertilizer bags are labeled with three numbers that indicate the guaranteed analysis, or the fertilizer grade. These three numbers give the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K), commonly referred to as the N-P-K ratio. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer is 20-10-15, it has 20 pounds of nitrogen, 10 pounds of phosphorus and 15 pounds of potassium for a total of 45 pounds of nutrients and 55 pounds of filler material. Other nutrients are sometimes listed on the label. The law requires the fertilizer manufacturer to guarantee that the N-P-K ratio of fertilizer on the label is correct meaning the nutrients listed on the label are contained in the fertilizer. If you have your soil tested, the report will recommend the type of fertilizers and amounts that should be applied.

     Various formulations of fertilizers are used. Complete fertilizers contain all three of the major nutrients. Incomplete fertilizers, such as 0-20-20, do not contain all three of these nutrients. Slow release fertilizers include a coating of materials that allow the nutrients to be slowly made available to the plants over a period. Water, heat, and microbes break the material down. Some fertilizers are combined with pesticides. However, the timing for a fertilizer application and treatment for the pest may not coincide. For example, some fertilizers are formulated with a pre-emergent herbicide. In the spring, the best time for the use of a pre-emergent is in March. The fertilizer should not put down on warm-season grasses at that time since it could cause them to come out of dormancy prematurely and increase the risk of cold damage from a late season freeze.

     Many gardeners question whether the use of organic fertilizers is advantageous over synthetic fertilizers. Bone meal, cottonseed meal, blood meal, manure, compost and other sources are considered organic fertilizers. The advantage to using them is increasing the organic matter content of the soil and improving its physical structure. They also are less likely to burn the plant material. However, the nutrients in organic fertilizer are not in a form where plants can absorb.  They have to be broken down by soil microbes to be released into the soil. With synthetic fertilizer, the nutrients are immediately released. Also, the nutrient levels from organic sources are relatively low. Even if you use synthetic fertilizer, consider incorporating organic matter into the soil to improve it.

     Remember, not all fertilizers are alike. Fertilizer choice is dependent on the type of plant material that you are growing and the type of soil where it will be grown. Knowing your soil fertility needs from soil testing and understanding the different types of fertilizers will help in finding the right one for your particular situation.

Use proper mowing techniques to keep lawns healthy and attractive

Grass mowed with dull blades have shredded ends that 

makes it more susceptible to pests. It also causes the grass to 

have an off-color white cast.

    One of the most important components of lawn maintenance is mowing. It directly affects the health and quality of the turfgrass. Improperly mowed lawns will suffer and develop an unsightly appearance. Proper mowing consists of cutting the grass at the correct height and frequency. Doing so will create a healthy lawn by encouraging the development of a dense stand of turfgrass which helps reduce weeds and other pests.

     The proper mowing height is determined by the particular type of grass. Zoysiagrass should be mowed at one to one and one-and –one-half inches high. Hybrid bermudagrass prefers a height of a half inch to one-and –one-half inches while common bermudagrass should be cut one to two inches high. Centipedegrass likes to be maintained at one to one-and –one-half inches while St. Augustinegrass and tall fescue need to be cut at two to three inches.

    During hot dry periods, raise the mowing height one-half of an inch. The longer leaf blades will shade the soil which will keep the grass roots cooler and reduce moisture loss. When adjusting the mowing height, measure the distance of the mowing blades to the ground and make sure all four wheels are set at the same height.

    When mowing, remove no more than one-third of the grass blade. For example, if you want to maintain the lawn at a height of 2 inches, mow when it is 3 inches high. Removing more than one-third will increase the lawn’s susceptibility to pests and environmental stress. A sudden reduction in height greater than one-third can be damaging to the turfgrass. If the grass becomes too high between mowings, increase the height of the cut and then gradually lower it until the recommended height is reached for the particular type of grass.

    The blades should be kept sharp at all times. Dull blades will shred the ends of the grass. The ragged blades will cause the lawn to develop an unsightly brown to white appearance. Also, the grass is more prone to diseases and water loss. Sharpen the blades as needed or replace them with new ones.

     The question arises as to whether or not the grass clippings should be collected in a bag or allowed to drop back to the ground. The best course of action is to let them fall back into the turf where they will break down and release nutrients. This will help provide organic matter for the soil and reduce the need for fertilization. Some people are concerned this will increase thatch, which are dead roots, stems and grass blades that have accumulated between the surface of the soil and the green blades of the turf grass. It can lead to increased pest problems and other stresses. If the lawn is cut on a regular basis by removing no more than one-third of the leaf blade, the clippings should not form a thatch layer.

     Remember, correct mowing is an important component of lawn care. Make sure it is mowed at the correct height and frequency using a sharp blade. Doing so will help ensure a healthy and attractive lawn.

Camellia Fungal Leaf Gall

UGA Extension Gwinnett has received many calls from homeowners describing a strange appearance of the foliage of their camellias. Some of the leaves have swollen and have a white to pink color. They are somewhat unsightly. The malady is called is camellia leaf gall, which is caused by a fungus. The malady is more prevalent during the spring flush of leaf growth. They eventually turn brown and rupture, releasing spores. The good news is the fungus will not harm the plants, and no chemical control is necessary. Cut off the infected leaves and also remove any plant debris that has fallen to the ground and dispose. 

The Gardening in Gwinnett Blog is Back

To Blog Readers:

Due to the high demands of my time during the COVID-19 crisis, I have not kept up with this blog. It will be active again, so check back periodically for blog posts. thank you very much.

Timothy