Thursday, October 15, 2020
Blog Suspended Due to Technical Difficulties
My apologies for not having any entries lately. Several technical issues have prevented my posting of anything on the blog. We hope to have it up soon or perhaps we will be switching to another one. Thank you for your patience.
Wednesday, September 2, 2020
Upcoming UGA Extension Gwinnett Educational Programs
Here are some upcoming UGA Extension
Gwinnett educational programs. You can access them on the day and time they are
held by clicking on the Zoom link:
Fall
Lawn Care – September 2 – 6:00pm to 7:00pm. Free. Several tasks need to be done
during the fall. Proper fertilization, seeding and pest control will help to
keep your lawn healthy and attractive. Online Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/95624083267
Fall
is for Planting – September 15 – 6:00pm to 7:00pm.
Free. Fall is an
ideal time to plant trees and shrubs. They will have time to become established
during the cold weather and prosper the following spring and summer. Online
Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/96276788537
Gardening
with Herbs
• September 22 6:00pm to 7:00pm.
Herbs
are excellent garden plants that require minimal maintenance and come in a
variety of scents, flavors, and colors. They are useful in cooking, fragrance,
and are attractive features in the landscape. Online Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/98447261009
Perennial
Flowers for the Garden • October 6
6:00pm
to 7:00pm. The fall is an ideal time to plant perennials, flowering plants that
come back year after year. Proper soil preparation, selections of plants and
maintenance will ensure an attractive garden of colorful plants. Online Zoom
at: https://zoom.us/j/92780159703.
Rain
Gardens
• October 20
6:00pm
to 7:00pm. Reducing rainfall runoff form your property will help improve the
quality of the environment. One way is the installation of rain gardens that
consist of a multitude of ornamental plants. They collect rainwater and allow
for it to slowly infiltrate into the ground.
Online Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/95557939841.
Online Zoom at: https://zoom.us/j/95557939841.
Septic Tank Webinar-Free. Many homes have on-site wastewater management systems, commonly
called septic systems. Because septic systems are buried, it is easy to forget
about them as they quietly, elegantly and efficiently treat waste products
while maintaining human and environmental health. Poor maintenance is a common
cause of septic system failure. Join us for this VIRTUAL workshop to learn more
about where the system is, how it works and how to maintain it to avoid costly
repairs:
October 15, Septic Tank - English version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_61CVDhGNTuisFvRh_WvybQ
October 22, Septic Tank - Spanish version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_YxX0GEftTa2d2_3BwgkuKw
Time: 6:30pm to 7:30pm
October 15, Septic Tank - English version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_61CVDhGNTuisFvRh_WvybQ
October 22, Septic Tank - Spanish version. Webinar link: https://zoom.us/webinar/register/WN_YxX0GEftTa2d2_3BwgkuKw
Time: 6:30pm to 7:30pm
Friday, August 28, 2020
Tall Fescuegrass: Fall is the Optimal Time to Seed and Install Sod
The months of September and October are best for renovating and installing fescue lawns |
The best time of the year to plant tall
fescue is September into mid-October. Seeding it too early in the season can
cause heat stress and diseases; however, when planting late in the season, the
grass may not become fully established due to freezing temperatures. Applications
during the spring are not advisable because, although the seed will germinate,
it has insufficient time to get established prior to the onset of the summer
heat. Soil preparation is the most important aspect of caring for a fescue
lawn. The grass prefers fertile, well-drained soils with a soil pH of 5.5 to
6.5. Make sure you have the soil tested through UGA Extension Gwinnett to
determine the pH and nutrient needs.
Most established fescue lawns need to be
periodically reseeded since they tend to thin out over time. Since our soils
are mostly clay, they are easily compacted by rain, irrigation, foot traffic,
and the intense summer heat, which decreases the ability of the roots to grow,
for air and water to penetrate into the soil. To reduce compaction, use a
hollow tine core aerator every two to four years, which is available from
rental stores or garden centers. The
tines poke holes into the ground and pull out small one to two-inch-long
“cores.” The deposition of the small cores of soil on top of the ground also
assists reducing compaction. Mow the grass down to one and one-half inches to
help improve the ease of aerating the soil and for the seed to make soil
contact before aerating. When using the machine, do so in a criss-cross
direction by first going over the entire lawn, back and forth in one direction
and then go back and forth at right angles to the first series of trips. If you
are not aerating, use a steel rake to break up the soil in bare areas to ensure
the seed gets into the soil.
The
seed purchased should be of high quality to ensure a high percent of
germination and minimal weed content, and should have this information listed
on the tag. Apply the seed at the rate of five to seven pounds per 1,000 square
feet. Resist the temptation to use more seed since closely growing seedlings
compete with each other for water and nutrients in addition to being more
susceptible to disease. One of the most commonly used fescue seed has been
Kentucky-31. However, new improved cultivated varieties, such as ‘Southeast,’
‘Rebel,’ and ‘Tenacity,’ are more attractive cultivars and are referred to as
"turf-type" tall fescues. They have finer leaf blades, lower growth
habit, darker green color, greater density and more tolerance to heat and shade
than K-31.
After over-seeding has been completed,
the upper one-inch soil needs to be kept moist during the time the seed is
germinating by thorough applications of water two to three. Refrain from mowing
for a couple of weeks after the seed has been applied, and then mow at the
height of two to three inches.
With proper preparation and planning, and
using the appropriate cultural methods to maintain the fescue plot, you will
have an attractive and healthy lawn giving you an exceptionally lush, green carpet
of grass throughout the year.
Thursday, August 27, 2020
Mushrooms in the Lawn
Mushrooms are the reproductive structures of naturally occurring soil fungi |
Never eat any mushrooms found growing in the wild. While some are edible, they are hard to distinguish from the poisonous ones.
Lawn Tips for Late August
Once the weather cools down in September, you can seed or sod tall fescue grass. |
UGA Extension Turfgrass Specialist Clint Waltz has these tips for
your lawn for the end of August:
By mid-August, turf care begins to shift. Warm-season turfgrass is
nearing the close of its establishment window, while it’s too early yet for
establishing cool season turf.
- Split applications of
fertilizer for warm-season turf continues through October, but it’s too
early yet for fertilizing cool season turf.
- Continue to monitor for
diseases, such as brown patch, dollar spot, or Pythium blight, affecting
both cool- and warm-season turfgrasses.
- Insect activity may still be high. Monitor frequently for pests, such as chinch bugs, mole crickets, sod webworms, or grubs.
Monday, August 24, 2020
Ashikaga Flower Park Japan
The Ashikaga Flower
Park in Japan has beautiful displays of wisteria and other plants. It looks
more like something out of a fantasy would. Please check out their website and
the pictures below.
Friday, August 14, 2020
Water Conservation for Lawns
Here is
a brief update on lawns by University of Georgia Extension Turfgrass Specialist
Clint Waltz, Ph.D.:
All
living things need water to survive, albeit a different amount for different
organisms. For plants, supplemental water from irrigation is sometimes
needed between natural rainfall events. Fortunately, turfgrass is a fairly
robust plant that needs relatively little water for survival.
Many
factors influence the amount and frequency of water needed for turfgrass within
a home lawn. Soil type, type of grass, fertility level, frequency of rain,
temperature, wind, and humidity all affect the amount of water needed. A
high-level fertilization and hot, windy days tend to increase the demand for
water, while low level fertilization and cool, cloudy days tend to decrease the
demand for water.
One way
of conditioning the turfgrass to need less supplemental irrigation or, to
remain green between periodic summer rain showers is to tolerate some moisture
stress. An observable characteristic of moisture stress in turfgrass is
wilt. Wilt is a physiological defense mechanism of the turfgrass plant and
allowing some moisture stress actually triggers the plant to initiate rooting,
allowing the turfgrass to explore a greater soil volume for water reserves.
Before
watering, look for visual symptoms of water stress, such as gray color, leaf
cupping/curling, or footprints remaining on the lawn after walking across it. Observing
some moisture stress within the lawn prior to applying irrigation can be good
and improve the sustainability of the grass. Daily irrigation of turfgrass
produces short roots incapable of tolerating periodic drought stress. Most
established turfgrasses in Georgia only need one inch of water per
week. Irrigation should be applied to supplement rainfall.
Apply
enough water to wet the soil to a depth of five to seven inches. Do not
apply water until runoff occurs. If water is being applied faster than the
soil can absorb it, turn the irrigation off and allow the existing moisture to
move into the soil, then apply the remaining irrigation to achieve 1.0 inch.
Pay
attention to the weather. Reduce the amount you water when it is raining
or cloudy. Avoid irrigation schedules that apply more water than the turf
may need. Prior to sunrise is the best time to water because of less wind
and lower temperature. Research indicates water loss at night through
evaporation may be 50 percent less than during midday irrigation.
Employing
some best management practices (BMPs) like tolerating some wilt, allowing water
to move into the soil, and not watering during the heat of the day can conserve
water and maintain a healthy, attractive lawn.
Strange Webs in Trees: The Work of Fall Webworms
Fall Webworms appearing in trees throughout the area. |
The Extension office has received numerous
calls from homeowners concerned about strange webs that have appeared in some
of the trees in their home landscapes. A common misconception is that they are
the result of some spider. The cause is an insect called the fall webworm. They
appear in late summer and early fall and attack a multitude of plants,
including many fruits, nut and ornamental trees and shrubs. In some cases the
webs are so numerous they can cause the tree branches to break. Infestations
are unsightly but rarely harmful to the trees.
The fall webworm is a caterpillar; the
larval stage of a small white moth. Full-grown caterpillars are approximately
1-inch long, pale green or yellow, and covered with tufts of long, white and
black hairs. The insects often cover entire branches with their webs. The
larvae feed within the web, eating leaf tissue between the leaf veins. The
larvae drop off the tree and enclose themselves in cocoons. They spend the
winter as pupae in silken cocoons on the ground or the bark of the tree. In the
spring, the moths emerge from their cocoons, disperse and mate. Female moths
deposit their eggs on the undersides of the leaves of plants they like to eat.
The webworm eggs hatch later in the season, and the larvae begin to build the
web. As the larvae consume leaves within the web, they expand the web to take
in more and more foliage.
Often the insect is confused with the
Eastern tent caterpillar, which spins webs during the spring in the crotches of
the trees. Fall webworms make their webs in the outer limbs of the trees in the
autumn.
Eastern tent caterpillars build their nest in the crotches of trees. They are active in the early spring |
The caterpillars can be controlled
without insecticides. You can destroy the webs by using a long pole with a hook
on the end and pull the webs down. Larvae can also be knocked out of lower
branches with a stick or broom, or simple pruned. Many beneficial insects
attack the egg and larval stages of fall webworm. You can help these predators
and parasites get to their fall webworm prey by tearing open the webs.
If webs are too numerous or too high in a
tree to reach, sometimes insecticides, such as Sevin, can be used to kill the
insects. Hose-end sprayers or commercial high-pressure sprayers are best for
reaching upper portions of tall trees. Use caution when applying insecticides
above your head and wear all the proper protective clothing required on the
chemical label, insecticide sprays must penetrate the web deeply to be
effective since the webbing is quite tough and difficult for the spray to get
in. Please make sure you follow all label directions and safety precautions
when applying pesticides.
The webs caused by the fall webworms seldom
harm the trees. Often just ignoring them and leaving them in the trees is the
best course of action to take.
Wednesday, August 12, 2020
Sugar Maples Make a Great Snack for Sapsuckers
Holes in rows caused by sapsuckers |
Sapsuckers are migratory birds that are most
prevalent during the spring and fall. They prefer maple trees, but will also
feed on pecans, Bradford pears, and several others. The birds choose these
trees due to the high sugar content of their sap. It composes up to 20% of
their diet and is especially crucial during the year when other food sources
are in short supply. The birds also eat insects they find on the trees. They
peck a small hole, roughly one-eighth to one-quarter of an inch in diameter and
a depth of one-quarter of an inch in the tree's trunk. They will then use their
tongue to suck up the sap. The holes are evenly spaced up, down, and around the
trunk and appear as if a machine drilled them. Often the sap will flow down the
trunk of the tree. It promotes the growth of black sooty mold. Sometimes these
holes are mistaken for insects that bore into the tree trunks. However, the
ones caused by insect borers are more randomly scattered throughout the tree.
The feeding activity of sapsuckers rarely
causes harm to the trees. The holes they make are quite shallow. Many times
trees can have hundreds of holes bored into their bark and not suffer at all.
In rare cases, if the tree has been weakened due to other factors, such as
drought or previous pest activity, there is a remote chance the sapsucker
activity could harm the tree.
The sapsuckers are not easily deterred, so
begin the necessary control measures as soon as damage is observed. Use a
burlap or hardware cloth to cover the trunk around the area being attacked by
the sapsuckers. It will keep them away from the trunk.
Hanging reflective objects in the trees, like aluminum foil or
shiny pinwheels, will also discourage the birds since they dislike bright or
flashy objects. Leave these devices in place for a few weeks after you have
noticed the activity has ceased to make sure the birds do not return.
Repetitive loud noises, like a barking dog, can also scare them away. Another
method of control is smearing a sticky bird repellent onto the tree trunk.
There are several types of these products that are available at most garden
centers. Although this material will not hurt the birds, it will cause a tacky
feel to the tree's surface, creating discomfort to the birds, thus driving them
away. One crucial factor to remember is sapsuckers are classified as migratory,
nongame birds. The Federal Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects them. Killing
them by shooting, using toxicants, or any other lethal method is illegal.
Sapsuckers are one of nature’s more exciting
wonders. Usually, they are best left alone since they seldom pose a threat to
the trees they feed.
Tuesday, August 11, 2020
Leaves of Three Let it Be
Poison ivy - has an oil that causes skin irritation. Avoid contact. |
Poison ivy is a woody perennial vine or shrub
commonly found growing in the forest, along the roadsides, and in the home
landscape. The vine is frequently observed climbing trees or other structures.
It causes thousands of cases of contact dermatitis (redness, rash, blisters,
itching) each year. Everyone working outdoors needs to be familiar with the
appearance of the plant. The leaves are soft and arranged alternately on the
stem.
Each compound leaf consists of three
bright green shiny, elliptically shaped leaflets. The small stems between the
leaflets have a reddish coloring. Also, mature poison ivy plants ivy have small
white berries that are spread by birds.
Virginia creeper looks similar to poison ivy but has five leaflets. It is not poisonous. |
All parts of the plant (stems, roots,
flowers, and fruit) are poisonous. Even when the leaves have fallen during
winter, the bare stems can still cause a rash to anyone who comes into contact
with it. The plant contains toxic colorless oil that causes skin irritation.
People are often exposed to it when they brush against the plant and bruise the
leaves, getting the oil on their skin. Some are highly allergic to it, while
others are not quite as sensitive. The toxin can also be spread by equipment,
clothing, or animals that come in contact with the plant. If poison ivy is
burned, the smoke will carry the oils and harm anyone exposed to the smoke or
inhale it.
Symptoms usually appear within 12 to 48
hours. If contact with the plant is suspected, wash the affected area with cold
water and soap as soon as possible. Avoid using warm water since it will spread
the irritating oil on the skin. Rubbing alcohol is also a remedy. Only the
toxin can spread the rash, not the fluid contained in the blisters. There are
many ointments and lotions that can treat the affected skin. For more severe
cases, consult a physician.
What should homeowners do to get rid of
poison ivy? Continually cutting or mowing the plant will eventually reduce its
population. Digging out the individual poison ivy plants from the roots is
useful, especially in beds of ornamental plants. When doing so, always wear
protective gloves and long sleeve shirts. Wash all clothes thoroughly
afterward.
The application of herbicides can also
control poison ivy. Because it has an extensive root system, two or more applications
may be necessary. Several herbicides are useful for managing it, such as
Roundup or others labeled for controlling brushy weeds. For best results, apply
them on warm sunny days to actively growing plants. Use caution when spraying
around desirable plants since misapplication and wind drift could cause damage
to them. As with any pesticide, follow all label directions and safety
precautions.
Being familiar with the appearance of poison
ivy will help reduce the likelihood of exposure. It is wise to follow the old
saying: “leaves of three let it be.”
Wednesday, August 5, 2020
Centipedegrass is Low Maintenance but Does Require Some Upkeep
'TiftBlair' centipedegrass - a newer variety |
Centipedegrass has a creeping growth
habit that spreads by thick above ground runners known as stolons. It has a light green color and a medium
texture with leaf blades wider than those of Bermuda and Zoysia. It thrives in full sunlight, and although it
can handle light shade, the grass starts declining in deeper shade. The plant
is adaptable to infertile soils. Since it has a slower growth rate, it requires
minimal mowing and fertilization. Centipedegrass does best in somewhat acidic
soils, in the pH range of 5.0 to 6.0. If
the pH is higher, the grass may start developing a yellow color. Do not apply
lime unless recommended by a soil test.
Centipedegrass has a creeping growth habit. |
Centipedegrass needs one light
application of all-purpose fertilizer in the early summer. It should be mowed to a height of one to one
and a half inches with a sharp mower blade. Maintaining it at this height will
promote a deeper root system that helps the grass tolerate periods of sparse
rainfall. During dry spells, supplemental irrigation will help keep the grass
healthy. Apply enough water for it to penetrate deeply into the root zone.
Since the dead parts of the grass do not break down rapidly, thatch can
develop. Excessive amounts of fertilizer can increase the problem. If needed, the lawn should be dethatched by
using an aerator, vertical mower or a power rake.
Centipedegrass can be installed by both
sod and seed with May and June being the best times to plant. Centipedegrass
seed is somewhat expensive; however, the seeding rate of one quarter to one
half of a pound per 1,000 square feet is relatively light, and a bag of seed
can go a long way. Since the seeds are quite small, mix them with sand to
improve distribution when sowing. The grass can also be established by sod.
This method is more expensive; however, it has the advantage of providing an
instant lawn.
Common centipedegrass is the one most
frequently planted. Several hybrid varieties are also available. The most
popular is 'TiftBlair.' It can handle
cold temperatures better than the common type.
It produces a more robust root system that can penetrate deeper into the
soil, making it less susceptible to hot temperatures and dry conditions.
'Oaklawn' and 'Tennessee Hardy' are varieties with improved tolerance to cold,
drought and shade. The hybrids must be established through vegetative means,
such as sod or sprigs, and cannot be seeded.
A common affliction of centipedegrass is
centipede decline. The condition results from poor cultural practices that
interfere with the turfgrass's growth and is not caused by any diseases or
insects. A combination of excessive amounts of fertilizer, a pH above 6.0,
compact soils, too much water, improper mowing, and the lack of sunlight lead
to this disorder. Make sure the centipedegrass receives the appropriate
maintenance to reduce the likelihood of the occurrence of this condition. When applying herbicides to control weeds,
always read the label carefully because some herbicides can damage centipedegrass.
Even though centipedegrass is a
relatively easy grass to manage, it does need appropriate maintenance for it to
be healthy and attractive. If given the necessary care, it will provide you
with a beautiful lawn.
Tuesday, August 4, 2020
Oakworms are Out Feeding on the Leaves of Oak Trees
In late summers, large black caterpillars appear and feed on the leaves of oak trees. Though they may look threatening, the insects are not a threat to the trees. They are orange-striped oakworms, which are quite common in our area. They defoliate a few branches, but seldom harm the trees. Their droppings can cover the ground beneath. If the presence of the worms are bothersome, the best course of action is to remove the infested branches. Otherwise, they will disappear in time.
Wednesday, July 29, 2020
Zoysiagrass Lawns are Among the Best
Since we
are well into spring, warm-season grasses like Bermuda, centipede, and Zoysia,
have come out of dormancy and turned green.
Zoysia is one of the most beautiful of these grasses. Even though it is
not planted as much as some of the others, more area homeowners turn to this
type of grass for their lawns. Its coarse to fine texture, bright green color,
and ability to form a dense stand of grass has many positive attributes. Zoysia
is sometimes referred to as the “Mercedes” of turfgrasses because of its
excellent appearance, its higher cost to establish, and its requirement of a
higher level of maintenance than other turfgrasses. Even when it turns brown
and goes dormant during the winter, it still maintains a neat and tidy
appearance.
Zoysia
needs full sun, although it is tolerant of light shade; however, it will thin
out and deteriorate in deep shade. The lawn requires moderate levels of
fertilizer; a soil test will help determine what amounts are necessary.
Supplemental water is needed during prolonged dry spells, but the soil needs to
have adequate drainage - if the water puddles after irrigation or rainfall, the
grass will suffer and decline. Zoysia is prone to develop thatch, especially if
heavily fertilized. The lawn should be aerated every two to three years with a
hollow tine aerator to reduce thatch and to alleviate soil compaction.
Zoysia
is established by sod or sprigs and should be installed during warmer weather
when the grass is green, not during the colder weather when it is dormant.
Zoysia has a slower growth rate than other types of grasses and takes more time
to become established. Thus, it requires less mowing. However, if scalped or
damaged in any way, it takes longer to recover. Ideally, Zoysia should be cut
with a reel mower, but a rotary mower with a sharp blade will provide an
attractive cut. The grass should be mowed at the height of one to two inches.
During hot, dry weather, raise the mowing height one-half inch.
Several
varieties of Zoysia are available. ‘Meyer,’ one of the most popular, has a
medium texture, is tolerant to cold temperatures, and spreads more rapidly than
other Zoysia hybrids. ‘Emerald’ Zoysia is an attractive fine-textured hybrid
with a dark green color and is best suited for high-quality lawns with a good
maintenance program. However, it does tend to develop excess thatch at a more
rapid rate, and it is less tolerant of extreme cold. ‘El Toro’ is a relatively
new hybrid that was developed in California. It has a similar appearance to ‘Emerald’
and grows faster than other Zoysia hybrids. ‘El Toro’ is the most tolerant of
being cut with a rotary mower and produces less thatch. ‘Zeon’ has an
intermediate growth habit, excellent drought tolerance, and is adaptable to
different soil types.
If you
are willing to make the investment and provide the appropriate care, consider
growing Zoysia. It will thrive and beautify the home landscape. With Zoysia,
your lawn can be the envy of the neighborhood.
Seeds from China Appearing in the Mail
Please see the
following news release from the Georgia Department of Agriculture:
CONSUMER ADVISORY
Beware unsolicited packages of seed
The Georgia Department of Agriculture has been notified that several Georgia residents have received unsolicited packages containing seeds that appear to have originated from China. Recipients are strongly advised not to open the packages or plant the seeds. “At this time, we are not sure what the seeds are and therefore are urging everyone to be exceedingly vigilant,” Georgia Agriculture Commissioner Gary W. Black says. “If you have received one of these packages in the mail, please use extreme caution by not touching the contents and securing the package in a plastic bag.” The types of seeds in the packages are unknown at this time and may be invasive plant species. The packages were sent by mail and may have Chinese writing on them. Invasive species wreak havoc on the environment, displace or destroy native plants and insects and severely damage crops. Taking steps to prevent their introduction is the most effective method of reducing both the risk of invasive species infestations and the cost to control and mitigate those infestations. Anyone who has received unsolicited seeds in the mail from China or any other country is encouraged to contact the GDA Seed Lab at 229-386-3145 or email SeedLab@agr.georgia.gov
Tuesday, July 28, 2020
Murder Hornets Facts: They are not Present in Our Area
Asian Giant Hornet aka 'Murder Hornet.' Photograph by Hanna Royals, Museum Collection, USDA-APHIS-PPQ
|
Recent
news reports about ‘Murder Hornets’ appearing in the United States have many
people concerned. We need to separate fact from fiction regarding these
insects. The hornet is actually called the Asian Giant Hornet (Vespa
mandarina) and is native to East Asia. They get their name for preying on
honeybees. The hornets can grow up to two inches long and can inflict painful
stings. They have appeared in a few areas of Washington State and nowhere else. No
reports of them from our area. Sometimes people mistake the European hornet and
the cicada-killer wasp for murder hornets, but they are not.
Cicada Killer Wasps. Photograph by Jessica Louque, Smithers Vincent |
European hornet. Photograph by Jim Baker, North Carolina State University |
Monday, July 27, 2020
Beware of Herbicide Damage
Most of us apply herbicides to control the many weeds that trouble our lawn and gardens. However, care must be taken to avoid them from coming into contact with desirable plant material. Use care to avoid drift, which is caused by air movement and vaporization during hot weather. Avoid applications on windy days or when the temperature is over 85 degrees. Thoroughly read and follow all label directions. Some selective herbicides can be applied to some types of turfgrasses and not others. For example, atrazine provides excelent weed control for St. Augustinegrass and zoysiagrass, but is detrimental to bemrudagrass, zoysiagrass and tall fescuegrass. When applying herbicides to lawns, keep the chemicals off the roots of the tree and shrubs since it can be absorbed causing damage.
A crape myrtle that is suffering from Round Up damage. |
In regards to your vegetable garden, avoid any herbicide applications since anything that will kill the weeds can harm the vegetables. Handpulling and hoeing are the best options.
Tomatoes damaged by the application of 2,4-D herbicide to a lawn. |
As with any pesticide, follow all label directions when using.
Tuesday, July 14, 2020
St. Augustinegrass Lawns Attractive but Challenging
St. Augustinegrass thrives in filtered shade but not deep shade |
St.
Augustinegrass is an attractive turfgrass that has large flat stems and broad,
coarse blue-green leaves. It forms a dense, thick turf that spreads by long,
thick above-ground runners. St. Augustinegrass is similar in appearance to
centipedegrass, but its leaf blades are wider, and the tip of it does not have
as sharp a point. It is the most shade-tolerant warm-season grass thriving in
filtered shade but not deep shade. St. Augustinegrass lawns are established by
sod or sprigs, not by seed. When properly installed and maintained, a St.
Augustinegrass can be a beautiful lawn for homeowners.
St.
Augustinegrass is the lawn of choice in South Georgia and Florida. In North
Georgia, winter temperatures can drop to levels that can potentially harm the
lawn. However, many St. Augustinegrass
lawns in our area have survived the past couple of cold winters without
suffering from any significant damage. Newer varieties have been developed in
recent years that can tolerate colder temperatures.
St. Augustinegrass have wide leaf blades giving it a coarse texture. Foliage is blue-green |
Thatch
can sometimes be a problem, mainly if the lawn receives excessive amounts of
water, high nitrogen fertilizer, and is mowed too high. Thatch is a layer of
roots, stems, and shoots between the soil surface and the leaf blades that have
not completely decomposed. If it gets over one-half of an inch thick, it can
harbor insects, diseases and disrupt the penetration of air and water. Avoid
applications of excessive amounts of water and fertilizer. If thatch is a
problem, use a hollow tine core aerator during the growing season to break up
the layer. This machine has tines that pull out one inch long cores in a
pattern across the soil, thus allowing for improved air and water infiltration
and better root growth.
St. Augustinegrass
is highly susceptible to chinch bugs, which are small silver to black insects
one-eighth of an inch long. The main symptom of chinch bug activity is patches
of yellow to brown areas of dead grass that begins to spread. The insects are
most problematic during periods of hot, dry weather and are most active in the
lawn areas in full sun. If you suspect
chinch bugs are infesting the lawn, get a tin can and cut off both ends. Push
the can into the soil where the green, healthy grass transitions into the
affected grass and fill it with water. The chinch bugs will float to the
surface. Chinch bugs can be controlled by insecticides labeled for treating
insects in St. Augustinegrass lawns. Keeping the grass healthy through proper
cultural management methods will improve the lawn’s resistance to chinch bug
infestations.
Chinch bugs can be troublesome on St. Augistinegaras lawns. |
Wednesday, July 8, 2020
What to do about That Hornets Nest
A bald faced hornets nest. Photograph by Jerry Payne, USDA -ARS, bugwood.org |
UGA Extension Gwinnett has received calls from
several homeowners concerning hornet nests on their properties. They are
concerned about them and the potential hazard these stinging insects can pose.
The hornets are only a threat when they are close enough to the ground where
people can come into contact with the nests. If they are high up in a tree or
in another similar location, they are not a threat. Hornets only attack when people
mess with their nests or if you try to handle one. In these out of the way
locations, they are not troublesome. In fact, the hornets are beneficial in
that they consume harmful insects. You best course of action is to leave them
alone.
However, if the hornets nests is located where
they could sting people, get some flying insect aerosol spray, such as the Raid®
products, and apply according to label directions. Wait until early in the morning
or later in the afternoon, when the hornets are not as active. Stand back
several feet from the next and direct the spray to the entrance hole. Apply
enough to saturate it. This action should kill the insects.
Tuesday, July 7, 2020
2020 UGA Trial Gardens 'Plants of Distinction' for 2020
Begonia 'Top Hat' Pink, a winner of the 2018 UGA Trail Gardens Plants of Distinction |
The
University of Georgia Horticulture Department has its Trail Garden located on
the main Athens campus behind the pharmacy building. It has been there a long
time. I remember doing some work there during my undergraduate studies in the
1980s. Many seed companies send new releases
of herbaceous ornamental annuals and perennials to the UGA Department of
Horticulture. The Trail Gardens grows the plants and evaluates how well they do
in our climate. Then they generate a report to the seed companies on which ones
performed well and which ones did not. Then they compare these results to data
on the plants grown at other trial gardens across the nation. Please refer to their website at: https://ugatrial.hort.uga.edu/
Each year they release their annual Plants
of Distinction, which are ones that have the best appearance and overall
performance. Click here to see a list of ones for 2020: https://tinyurl.com/yckp4msh.
See the following pictures of the gardens in bloom:
See the following pictures of the gardens in bloom:
Thursday, July 2, 2020
Fire Ants are Troublesome but Their Impact Can Be Minimized
Fire ants can have colonies consisting of large numbers of aggressive ants. |
Over
the weekend, I mowed my lawn and noticed a substantial number of fire ant
mounds in my yard. With the cooler weather and rainfall, they have become more
active and visible. Fire ants are one of the homeowner’s worst nightmares. They
inflict painful stings on anyone who comes into contact with them. Their bite
can cause allergic reactions in susceptible individuals. The ants also build
unsightly nests in lawns as well as forage for food inside homes and other
structures. They will aggressively defend their mounds if disturbed. Managing
fire ant infestations is possible, although challenging.
Fire ants are an invasive insect native
to South America. They were accidentally imported into this country through
Mobile, AL back in the 1930s. They have spread throughout the southeastern
United States and are continuing to move north and west. Our favorable climate has allowed them to
become established. Unfortunately, there are no silver bullets for controlling
fire ants. The goal of any treatment is to eliminate fire ants where the risk
to people is high and to reduce infestations to minimal levels. The main
objective of any control measure is to kill the queen since she is the only one
capable of reproducing, and without her, the whole colony will die off.
There are three strategies when using
chemical pesticides. The first one involves broadcasting baits, which are
insecticides mixed with a food source that attracts the ants. Make sure the
ground is dry before broadcasting. Worker ants carry the bait into their mounds
and feed it to the queen. Eventually, the whole colony will die. This process may
take a week or more.
The second strategy is treating the
individual mounds with an insecticidal drench, which consists of an insecticide
diluted in water. The drench is quite effective in controlling the ants if it
penetrates to the bottom of the mound.
The third strategy is to apply a granular
insecticide labeled for the control of fire ants. These products can take a few
days to a week to work. The application of the granules can help prevent new
infestations in the treated area. Remember, when using pesticides, follow all
label directions and safety precautions.
An alternative to using pesticides is
pouring boiling water on top of the mounds. Apply when the ants are close to
the surface as on a sunny, cool day. The treatment usually kills most of the
ants, although sometimes you will have to retreat the mounds will have to.
Research has shown grits, and other homemade remedies are ineffective.
If the fire ants are coming indoors,
remove open food sources, and seal any holes or cracks around doors or windows.
Locate the fire ant mounds outside and treat them to reduce the numbers that
may be going indoors.
Fire ants can be a real menace, but they
can be brought under control by using the appropriate measures. Doing so will
reduce the chances of you coming into contact with them and suffering from the
painful stings they inflict.
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